Dog Attack
The best bet is DON’T be attacked by dogs or any large carnivore. However, as with most unavoidable attacks, these too will mostly be unexpected. Animals having evolved from hunting carnivores mostly run faster than humans. Trying to run is not a wise option exposing your rear to the rout. A bad way to be hurt. Unless there is a fence you can vault or a tree to climb or a some similar out of reach, readily accessible safe haven, simply running is not an option.
If attacked, you have no option than to meet and to intercept, hard, fast and with strong intent. If there are more than one, as in a pack, they will teamwork as when hunting. Multiple attacks in training will provide a definite edge.
Carrying weapons can be problematic. A tip: Unless your proposed weapon is constantly in your hand, you can forget about reaching into your bag or even a pocket for it. It just does not work that way most of the time. I’d be inclined to forget about pepper spray, to be quite honest. Attackers don’t stand still and there is no substitute for skill in action.
While you are under attack, unless you expected the attack and prepared earlier, you will be too busy fending off dogs/or attackers to have the time to take time out to rummage in your pockets or a bag. That’s the reality. Serious attacks come hard, fast, with power and all their weight and will be trying to sink their teeth in your face, neck, arms, legs and groin. Each second counts.
One of the best dog deterrents is a walking stick or a staff. THAT works very well and most of the time the mere sight of it acts as a communication with most dogs. Not all. Sometimes it won’t and when it does not, you may have to use it. Make sure it’s solid timber as dogs are VERY strong and weak wood will break.
To give you an idea how strong dogs are, I once ran over one of my pups who was sleeping behind the rear wheel of my 4 wheel drive. As I backed it out of the drive I twice went over a large bump. I jumped out just as my pup got up, shook himself and glared at me over his shoulder: “Can’t a dog sleep in peace without someone driving over him, dad?”
I was distraught, thinking I had injured him, but the dog simply slouched away in disgust and resumed sleeping under the house. A veterinary examination showed no harm. Not a scratch.
A human could not sustain being run over with a large car whilst sleeping or awake, without injury. (unless you are very strong and distribute the weight over a large, strong board, a stunt not recommended anyhow.)
On this basis there is a great difference in strength and resilience in place before you start. Also, dogs have large canine teeth, are fast, driven and determined when in a killing frenzy.
As always, the best bet is to make the situation impossible by avoidance or where possible communication. This is a 50/50 proposition. Sometimes you will be able to and at other times not.
Sokaku Takeda carried a walking stick with a blade concealed and put attacking dogs to rest immediately and permanently by running them through. Particularly in cases where children were at risk. An old Melanesian I knew, Old Pop Barunah, used a very strong walking staff. He was an animal lover, but attacking dogs were promptly sent to doggie heaven.
In the case of small dogs trying to bite, if you’ve played football, and can kick a good ball, footballing a small dog back to where they came from becomes a good deterrent acting as permanent education which may prevent other people getting harmed in future. It will, however, really annoy dog worshipers. Allowing yourself to get bitten, just to please an undisciplined person who fails to control their dog, is not recommended, and I suggest follow-up with strong legal action against such owners. Go promptly to the police, report the incident and if the police don’t, then you should press charges.
Assault whether deliberate or by neglect, using a dog, constitutes an assault. You did not invite it. Don’t take it. It is unacceptable.
In the case of large dogs and where there are more than one and they are serious about taking you down, they will be attacking your various vulnerable, vital body parts with intent to injure, incapacitate and kill. THIS IS A VERY SERIOUS MATTER not to be underestimated, because if they succeed, your death and disfigurement could be on the agenda.
Dogs are strong and a 100 pounds (45.5 kilos) plus dog will attack you with all his weight accelerating into you. Some breeds will go for face and throat as well as arms, legs, groin and neck. It’s no joke. Packs of “cute” pet dogs, who sneak out and band together at night to roam, revert to ancestral hunting and killing habits. They have brought down domestic cows and other livestock as effectively as, if not better than, a pack of wild hunting wolves. Some have killed children and in some cases also adults.*see links below
(>>) Knocking them down will mean nothing. They will leap up again and again, at the speed of light and continue attacking repeatedly. You should consider how long this can go on for and who will tire or make a mistake first. You will not be able to wear dogs out safely by pushing them away. If there are more than one, you should ALWAYS know where all of them are, otherwise the one you don’t see will most likely injure you sufficiently to take you down.
Of course no-one likes to hurt nice doggies, but if they are trying to kill you, you will be wanting to live. Rest assured of this fact. They are not “nice doggies” any more but a force to be dealt with.
You are entitled to live and you should make every effort to do so. If necessary, and if no alternate options present themselves, you should try to kill the dog(s). It is virtually impossible but your intent will communicate a message.
Bare-handed this can be a tad difficult. A good survival technique that works well with carnivores including dogs, tigers, lions and some others although I would not be inclined to try this with hyenas or bears (aside from dogs most of these are becoming extinct and don’t roam the streets in their natural form anyhow).
A good dog/carnivore defence technique is to unhesitatingly take the first opportunity to ram one fist as fast and as forcefully hard and as far into their mouth, down into their throat, as far it will go, reaching for their entrails and simultaneously bite the animal on the nose very hard with intent to break a chunk off. The gag reflex combined with their softest part being mauled and the shock of the effectiveness of your counter will most likely bring about capitulation. At least you will be talking their language and letting them know you understand the game. Use the other hand to pull against their collar if they have one or an ear or the scruff of their neck. When they gag and spit your arm out, don’t just stand there, give chase immediately. Become the hunter. Additionally, not per se, given the opportunity, eye gouges may have some limited use but not as a first or only option.
Once the counter has taken effect, you should chase them yelling loudly and with strong intent to do harm. It’s harsh but it’s survival. This time they will likely take notice and usually will not return. If you catch one by the back legs or tail a good follow up is to swing him into the ground or a tree and knee drop the ribs. And repeat. This will help deter any other beast.
Also always make sure to be carrying a pen and notepad. These are vital weapons for taking notes after the event to use as evidence, but will also provide you at least one defensive “tooth” during action. You may not be able to write with it afterwards so either carry more than one, or make sure it is strong. If something is available and you can safely do so, you may be able to pick something up to use as a weapon. Don’t rely on this possibility however. Simply be aware that sometimes it may be an option. Only consider this if the moment of bending down can be safe.
As with all animals and humans who gang attack, they are cowards who will generally not run in to the defence of their compatriot, instead will usually tend to fear the successful defender.
Throwing dogs and any real attacker for that matter will be a waste of time. Throws are futile in real attack situations and if you are programmed that throws can achieve anything, wake up quick if you want to live. I don’t think I even need to mention the folly of groundwork.
You must intercept each attack strongly with all your weight and stand correctly and in a stable budo hanmi posture. Different breeds will use different attacking methods and you should identify this quickly and immediately use an effective counter.
Of course we should always live a life holding the greatest respect for all life. When something is trying to kill you however, you must do what it takes to survive.
Your own instincts will back up your training, but never underestimate any attacker.
If you fight back with strength, skill, determination and survival intensity, it will increase your chance of faring well. Protect your safety at all costs. Most victims become so because of fear, freezing and victim like behaviours.
Don’t accept defeat. Allow yourself to become ferocious and determine to live.
Immediately after such attacks go to the police and seek immediate medical attention even if you think you don’t have a scratch. Request a tetanus shot and whatever it is they do in countries which have rabies.
Also you will be hyped for a few days following such events. That is a natural biochemical response. Note it and note what friends and family may be saying. Meditation and any measures that will help digest the experience psychologically are always beneficial.
Postscript:
Whilst some may argue that statistics of death by dog are less than this or that, that is no consolation to the victims or families of victims who have lost children. If you find you are one such statistic, theories about statistics and numbers soon fade in the face of the very personal nature of such attacks. In the local news, in the last fortnight 3 children were killed by domestic pet dogs in separate incidences. I’m not sure what the annual global statistics are.
* http://www.dogbitelaw.com/PAGES/statistics.html
* http://www.brownandcrouppen.com/dog_bite_injuries.html
(<< go back up page to finish reading text)
Nev Sagiba
aikiblue.com
Nev Sagiba — December 30th, 2007 (add comment)
Reader Comments
Ted Taylor writes:
Very informative article Nev. I have previously mentioned my own dog attack while in the Himalayas. The locals later told me that the act of squatting down as if to pick up a stone will often drive them away. Of course, not all dogs will have that negative reinforcement conditioning.
Japan is going a major dog boom at the moment. The majority are small ‘accessories’ that would probably strain their necks if they tried to bite higher than an ankle. Yet I can realistically imagine a time after the popularity wanes, when the abandoned animals roam wild and hungry in the mountains outside cities. Dog attacks will surely increase.
Charles Warren writes:
Most dog “attacks” are simply vigorous ways of signalling that the dog(s) is (are) displeased with your presence. It or they are doing their job to at once herd you out of the territory and notify their owners of your presence and their diligence. Nonetheless, nipping at ankles is a real possibility. I have found that rocks work well, particularly in the daytime. If you own a dog, you may have to defend it. Particularly these days the law favors self-defense by dog over armed self defense. This fact has been lost neither on drug dealers nor attractive young women. The difficulty with having a dog as a weapon is that it, unlike a pistol, has its own agenda. Defending my cocker spaniel from a pit bull I found that pepper spray is very effective. Effective on the owner as well, if as was the case it’s a drug dealer. Actually the owner knew pepper spray well and got his animal under control without its stimulus. Other than that, most dog attacks, naturally, occur below waist level, so kicks work. Don’t expect to connect very often. Dogs are excellent judges of distance. But you will clear some distance. On two occasions at night I found that the sound of an opening pocket knife was an excellent deterrent. One click and the whole pack left the scene.
Stefan Schröder writes:
Dear Nev Sagiba,
thank you for sharing your insights into dog assaults. I like to add some observations and notes to your blog article.
First of all, your scenario is really scary, but - who knows - reality is not a picnic. Anyway I think there are some measures against dogs that are not quite as dangerous as those in your essay. Let’s think a minute about the reasons why a dog should attack you. Three reasons come to mind immediately. First, you might have entered his patch. Your fault, simply withdraw - leave his “castle.” Second, dogs - like all animals and human beings - attack out of fear, this imposes the question: Did you scare the dog or attack him involuntarily? Third, the dogs might have been sent after you deliberately, well then, what did you do to attract the dog owners anger? Did you really act according the aikido principles before the attack command was yelled?
Now these are many if’s and when’s that will not help you when under attack. Let’s look at statistics. Most dogs attacks are against their own family! This is a consequence of mis-education and ignorance of the dog owners, resulting in mistreatment of the dogs. Not all, but many dog owners do not accept the responsibilities that come with living with a dog. Often, dogs are mere toys or tools and their natural behavior and requirements are not met.
I can only speak for my own country, but here in Germany, packs running wild are rather scarce. We have a problem with dog assaults, but mostly because of the reasons cited above. Let me provide an example. Parents of small children think it is cute to have their toddler sitting in their dogs basket, but their is a great chance, that the dog does not share their enthusiasm. On the contrary: Dogs do not accept small children as authorities, they are expected to “follow the rules”. One of the rules is: My dog basket is my territory. He will growl and bare his teeth. Reaction of the parents: “Bad dog!” The dog learns from this, that to give the child warning of his intention to fend of the intruder will result in scolding. Therefore his next attack may be without warning. Dogs logic.
Another mistake often made by human beings when dealing with dogs is to assign human characteristics to dogs. Dogs know no guilt. Guilt is a human word. When a dog is scolded, he will of course crawl on all fours, but not because he knows what he did wrong, but because he is scolded. Consequence: The dumb human thinks that the dog is ashamed and is satisfied with his dog training abilities. But the dog did not learn.
Dogs learn every day. And they cannot learn, if they are not shown what to do. Too often I see dog owners who yell at their poor dogs who simply don’t know what to do, how to behave, because they are beaten for doing the wrong thing, but not motivated to do the right thing - Motivation, that’s the modern, the better, the right way to train dogs.
But let’s return to the evil dogs. I do not share your pessimism with respect to the reaction time. Dogs are fast, but they don’t materialize in front of you.
My tips to increase the repertoire of possible defenses:
* Take of your jacket as soon as possible and wrap it around your forearm. Offer it as a bait. When the dog takes it, grab his collar and twist it (if the dog was not mad at you before, he now will be!), take him down and rest your knee on the side of his head.
* Take of one shoe, use it like a glove and push that into the dogs throat, not your naked hand.
* Pulling the dogs tongue is said to be effective (only proven with nice dogs)
I don’t share your rejection of throws. I once threw a small dog over a fence. He was not really dangerous, but a nuisance. Throws will buy you time for escape and thinking.
Only my 1 cent.
Woof woof,
Stefan Schroeder.
PS. I wish to thank my dog trainer Dr Sandra Bruns.
Nev writes:
For some facts, read the statistics in the web links I have provided. Note the details at: http://www.dogbitelaw.com/PAGES/statistics.html
The face is the most frequent target
Studies also have shown that:
* Dog bites result in approximately 44,000 facial injuries in US hospitals each year. This represents between 0.5% and 1.5% of all emergency room visits
* The face is the most frequent target (77% of all injures). Mail carriers are an exception where 97% involve the lower extremities.
* The central target area for the face includes the lips, nose, and cheeks.
Also the section on fatalities.
Tom Fox writes:
It isn’t necessary to drop down and pretend to pick up a stone in countries where dogs tend to run free and people tend to throw stones at them. Just raise your arm. Dogs are too fast.
In Thailand, I dropped and put my hand to the ground once and nearly didn’t get my arm back up in time. Luckily, the dog responded immediately to the raised arm even though I didn’t have time to stand again.
Since that time, I have just assumed the throwing position and dogs have instantly backed off several meters, even in a pack.
A pack requires some attention to the dogs circling round the back, but none of the dogs want to be the one to take the stone, so pack coordination tends to fall apart.
This only works in places where dogs are regularly stoned, but I would bet that includes a good portion of the planet and many if not most places where leashes aren’t commonly used.
Belatedly Nev Sensei, in this addition to my comment I want to respond to your comments in this blog and your latest on the difference between an attack and posturing, recognizing the futility of any posturing with or without an imaginary stone in the event of a full-charge deadly attack.
I do indeed recognize the difference, and I recognize my good fortune, having lived my life so far without being on the receiving end of such an attack. A member of my university class recently lost a wife and two daughters to a home invasion in the U.S., bringing home the precariousness of my good fortune and the need to do what I can to prepare for the worst - without becoming obsessed with the possibilities, of course.
My post was about those instances you mention in your latest blog when the posturing is with the intent of deciding to attack. Since the subject of pretending to pick up a stone was mentioned in an earlier comment, I felt it important enough to relate my experience.
Since I didn’t yet have confidence in the pretence, I once met an onrushing dog by going to ground to pick up a real stone. I almost gave a piece of my face to a dog who was definitely intent on biting me, but who fortunately didn’t have the self-confidence of a killer dog when I finally got my attack posture in place.
Certainly, this tactic won’t work against a dog coming in for the kill. Neither would a determined assassin stop if I assumed a threatening posture. I never meant to imply these things.
As for killer dogs, I am grateful for the tip about shoving your arm down the dog’s throat - it’s clearly counterintuitive but also clearly it would limit the dog’s jaw strength or at least his focus if you are clawing at his insides with your fingers.
Nev writes:
Dogs posturing and dogs attacking are two entirely different things.
I geared my article to actual or imminent real dog attack, actual attack, because it exists and can be lethal. Attacking dogs are not interested in, or intimidated by the sound of a pocket knife, a motion or any gadgety item. Not even stones. Even a staff will have to actually be used.
Posturing dogs are easily dealt with in the manner several of you describe here. Barking is not an attack. Approaching is not an attack. Even baring teeth are usually a show rather than actual intent. Neither is merely nipping at ankles or other common dog behaviors we have become used to.
Dogs do not think like us, or require any rational reason for behaviors, so the trigger may be anything at all, even something that happened to the dog in the past at the hands of another person. Or bad training. They do not require a rational reason, merely a trigger, then ancient instincts take over and do not stop until they achieve their objective, a kill, or are hurt, or are some other way stopped. Most modern pets have that bred out of them.
Some breeds are still on the edge.
When dogs actually attack, none of the counter-posturing described here will have any effect and there will be no time to mess about.
A “displeased dog” will communicate that in a manner of ways. A killing dog is no longer interested in comminicating. It is beyond displeased. It wants to kill. It will bypass all that and try to take your face off.
The article was not based on theoretical considerations, nor the usual domestic dog rambunctious behaviors which can sometimes be annoying but are mostly manageable. It was based on experience. Take my word for it: Killing dogs exist. According to stats 77% of the time they attack the face. About 26 people a year die in America from such dog attacks. I would estimate that it would therefore be possible that globally several hundred or so people would be dying annually. Except for Korea where I suspect the human death by dog would be a net zero.
Underestimating dangerous potentials of any kind is one of the worst forms of complacency because it allows us to sleep. Until the event. In which case it will be too late.

